20130113

BUYRUN!

WELCOME! HOW CAN I HELP YOU?

i already mentioned tarlabaşı sunday market soon after i moved. back then i described it like this - 


..it's amazing! i found an apartment with a view and sunday market on the street we live, what is even better. you can find everything on it; fruit, vegetable, nuts, spices, sweets, clothes, shoes, accesories, brooms, tobacco, rubbish bins and drain stoppers, cleaners, parfumes, scarfs, curtains, fish, heaters, all colours, all smells and among all chaos your little 'piece of peace'.

a lot of sundays have already passed and description is still true. vegetable and fruit, also clothes are changing according to the season. these days you can find a lot of chestnuts and oranges, kaki was popular in december.. 



 what fascinates me every sunday is the following. sellers of this type of bazaar stop every day in different neighborhood  they arrive with their vans and trucks early in the morning. sometimes we meet them if we just return from a party (sometimes:). morning starts with setting up construction for the white roofs, that protects them and visitors from any kind of weather. building those roofs seems very coincidental at first because they simply connect them with ropes and tie them around houses, traffic signs and trees. they work together in very coordinated way and it makes me think that everything is well predicted in fact. when they finish it's already breakfast time (melemen, eggs mixed with pepper and tomato) served by small local restaurants. and tea, of course. first people come to the market around eleven o'clock but everything is still more or less quite and just about to start. it becomes really crowded at four in the afternoon and stays like this until the end. it seems everyone from the neighborhood comes and buys supplies for the 
following week. the only way you can move is walking slowly behind person in front of you and buying things that you come across. for example, if you want to buy two kilos of oranges, you say: iki kilo portakal! or you put as many as you want into a plastic bowl and give it to the merchant. buyrun, buyrun they yell all the time, sing the prices or name of the vegetable, guys from a neighbor store have their own speaker system that enables them to shout out prices the loudest. every few meters there is someone standing in the middle of crowded street and selling simits, wine leaves (to prepare yaprak dolmasi) or socks sometimes. when it gets dark they slowly start putting products back to big boxes and bags and load them on trucks. what is left behind is huge amount of trash, mostly vegetable scattered around, smashed fruit and plastics bags that stays on the street until another truck comes before midnight and flushes everything away...

it all reminds me of games we played when we were little. we made up the whole new world we then played in, as they do, and only if just for one sunday afternoon, it's worth as it is worth to create some other world some other day.




IZVOLITE! ŽELITE?

market sem nekje na začetku že takole omenila -

 ..noro je, noro noro noro! našla sem tole, ima pogled na mesto in vsako nedeljo kilometer dolgo tržnico, kar je še boljše. na njej najdeš vse, sadje, zelenjavo, oreščke, začimbe, sladkarije, obleke, čevlje, zapestnice, metle, tobak, koše za smeti in zamaške za odtok, čistila, parfume, rute, zavese, ribe, ogromno rib, vse barve, vse vonje in med vsem šundrom svoj mir.

nedelj je bilo že kar nekaj in opis še vedno drži. ponudba se poleg stalne seveda spreminja glede na sezono, nekaj časa nazaj so bili popularni kakiji, zdaj pa še vedno kostanji in cele mize pomaranč. kar me prav tako vsako nedeljo fascinira je naslednje. to je tržnica, ki se vsak dan seli iz soseske v sosesko. to pomeni, da se zgodaj zgodaj zjutraj (in če se slučajno kdaj šele takrat vrnemo domov, jih srečamo) pripeljejo z manjšimi tovornjaki in kombiji, razložijo svoje stvari in začnejo postavljati konstrukcijo za bele strehe, ki njih in obiskovalce nato cel dan varujejo pred kakršnimkoli že vremenom. zgleda kot da jih privežejo kar tako malo povprek na hiše, drogove in drevesa, ampak delajo skupaj in usklajeno in zdi se, da imajo v resnici premišljen sistem. nato postavijo mize in na mize svojo ponudbo. okoli devetih pojejo zajtrk (melemen, umešana jajca s papriko in paradižnikom) in seveda spijejo čaj. ob enajstih začnejo kapljati prvi obiskovalci, vendar vse skupaj deluje še zelo jutranje. prava gužva nastane okoli štirih in traja do konca, takrat se praktično ne moreš premikati in lahko samo stopaš za gospo ali gospodom pred tabo in se vmes, ko vidiš, kaj prodajajo, hitro odločiš, če vzameš ali ne. če si naprimer želiš dve kili pomaranč, rečeš; iki kilo portakal ali pa vzameš eno izmed plastičnih posod in naložiš kolikor hočeš. buyrun, buyrun se derejo vsepovprek, pojejo, tulijo, tekmujejo, kdo je glasnejši, iz bližnje mini trgovine po zvočniku sporočajo akcijske cene, nekateri dobesedno stojijo sredi svoje ponudbe in vsake toliko tudi sredi ulice nekdo prodaja simit ali vinske liste, s katerimi pripravljajo svojo specialiteto (yaprak dolmasi). ko se stemni, počasi začnejo pospravljati, olive stresajo nazaj v velike posode, čistijo vitrine s sirom in iz obešalnikov snemajo obleke. za njimi ostanejo kupi smeti, večinoma raztresene in pohojene zelenjave, ki jo pred polnočjo spere z veliko vode ogromen tovornjak. vse skupaj spominja na kakšno izmed iger, ki smo si jih izmislili in igrali kot otroci. toliko priprav, cel nov svet vzpostavijo iz praktično ničesar in je vredno, res vredno se vsako nedeljo potruditi zanj in za kakšen drug svet ostale dni. 


















20130107

ARALIK

DECEMBER

december differed from other decembers because of its non-typical christmas spirit. christmas-like decoration hangs above istiklal the whole year round. at first it seems a bit non-fitting the place but then you get used to it. shops don't disturb you with their biggest discounts possible, but at the same time there is no people gathering in the evenings, drinking mulled wine outside, eating chestnuts and listening to live music in a way we know it in ljubljana. maybe shock when coming home was a bit bigger because everything that didn't grow within me since the beginning seemed a bit unfamiliar. a little bit, i got used to it very quickly. being at home was quite and cosy, seeing friends and listening to their news exciting and attending big demonstrations on the day when end of the world was suppposed to happen, historic.

DECEMBER

december se je razlikoval od prejšnjih predvsem po ne-božičnem vzdušju. lučke preko istiklala visijo celo leto, kar se ti zdi najprej hecno, nato pa se navadiš, trgovine ne vsiljujejo tako grobo neskončnih popustov, vendar se tudi ljudje ne zbirajo na prostem ob kuhanem vinu, kostanju in glasbi. zato je bil toliko večji šok priti domov, kjer se je ves pomp okoli božičnega vzdušja, ki ni od začetka zrasel v meni, zdel malo na silo. seveda ni dolgo trajalo, hitro sem se privadila in bilo je lepo, tiho in domače, z veliko objemov in novic za nazaj ter zgodovinskimi demonstracijami na dan konca sveta.



our neighbour making us breakfast and soups in his little kitchen as our grandmothers would  

simit lover

hidden/discovered

religion bazaar

innovative system that brings those living on top floor whatever they want without climbing down the stairs

our roomate writing about how many loves there are
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU3LDZuWrrs
writing ti turkish way

garbage collector, sad but common job

znanje na cesti (knowledge hits the road), event organized in ljubljana that was about sharing knowledge on public spaces in answer to  current politics 

we participated in demonstrations with my sister's idea about negative photos/politicians

home sweet home





20121228

HOŞGELDİNİZ

today something about approaching city from above and how city takes you within. there were twenty people on flight ljubljana-istanbul. three couples, me and turkish men, all of them truck drivers. they drive from turkey to italy and fly back home or the opposite. the loudest of them sit behind my seat, of course. 'gel gel abi' (come here, abi, abi is a word they use to address each other) mixes with voice of a stewardess 's čim vam lahko postrežem' ('how can i help you'). we fly at night but they don't stop talking. i recognize few words, the rest is still a melody. i cannot fall asleep therefore i look through the window. i don't want to sound kitchy, but i swear, that's how it was. there was full moon shining on dense cloud carpet below us. after two hours, burek and yoghurt adria offers us, wide-spread orange light illuminates clouds from below. once we start landing undefined light turns into millions of single lights, orange and white, flashing, moving on twisted highways, sliding on bosphorus, welcoming on windows, floating on skyscrapers and disappearing on the borders far away.
'tadaam' we touch the ground and turn into one of them. havataš (transfer company) driver comes up with an idea that night buses are five liras more expensive and than the others that start driving at 7am (it's 4am). well, my dear havataš, i would pay three months ago, but i'm not here for the first time, i pay normal price and take süt sahlep (white pudding like sweet drink with cinnamon and whole nuts) on taksim instead. good morning!

danes nekaj o tem, kako se je mestu približevati skozi oblake in kako mesto leze vate. na letu iz ljubljane nas je bilo dvajset. trije pari, mojamalenkost in sami turki, vozniki tovornjakov, ki vozijo na relaciji turčija-italija in letijo nazaj. najbolj glasni so seveda sedeli za mojim sedežem. 'gel gel abi' ('pridi sem, abi', z abi se med sabo vsi nagovarjajo) se meša s stevardesinim glasom 's čim vam lahko postrežem'. letimo ponoči, ampak oni ne nehajo in ne nehajo debatirati. par besed ujamem, ostalo je še vedno melodija. ker ne morem zaspati, gledam skozi okno in nočem, da se sliši kičasto, ampak tako je bilo, zunaj sije polna luna in osvetluje gosto pokrajino oblakov pod nami. čez dve uri, bureku in jogurtu, ki nam ga v stilu postreže adria, čez te oblake začne od spodaj prosevati oranžna svetloba, ki se, ko se začnemo spuščati, definira v neskončno luči, oranžnih, belih, utripajočih, premikajočih se na pentljastih avtocestah, drsečih čez bospor, domačih na milijonih stanovanjskih blokov in hiš, lebdečih na nebotičnikih in izginjajočih na robu mesta.tadaam' se dotaknemo tal in postanemo ena izmed njih. voznik havataša (transferja do mesta) si nato gladko izmisli, da ima nočni avtobus višjo tarifo in da cenejši pelje šele ob sedmih zjutraj, ampak veš kaj, ne pelješ me prvič, tri mesece nazaj bi plačala, danes pa odštejem običajnih deset lir in si s preostankom na začetku istiklala kupim süt sahlep, gosti beli kakav s cimetom in lešniki za dobro jutro. dobro jutro!



20121216

DÜNYANIN BAŞLANGIÇI

 another journey is over. we went to the beginning of mesopotamia region or better said to the beginning of the world! cultures are like thousands of years before still confronting each other here, places we visited are less and less turkish and more and more kurdish. we flew all across turkey to southeastern part of it. we couldn't stop wondering about so many things - landscape changing so fast from green fields to deserts, incredible hospitality (thank you heja, ata, ali, bilal, cesur, abbas, emin, and everyone else we met on our way), oldest cities merged with the surroundings, about food and pistachio desserts and especially about the fact how calmly people live despite the sound of military planes crossing diyarbakır and despite the fact that terrible war is starting just behind the border.


še eno potovanje je za mano. na začetek mezopotamije oz. na začetek sveta, kjer se kulture tako kot že tisoče let še vedno prepletajo, kraji, katere smo obiskali so vedno manj turški in vedno bolj kurdski. preleteli smo namreč turčijo do jugovzhoda in se nismo mogli nehati čuditi. pokrajini, ki se tako hitro spreminja iz stepe v zelena polja in nazaj do že skoraj puščave, neverjetni gostoljubnosti, starim, pravzaprav najstarejšim mestnim jedrom ujetim v čas in zlitimi z okoliško pokrajino, božanski hrani in pistacijevim slaščicam in dejstvu, da se zdi, da ljudje popolnoma mirno in počasi živijo, čeprav diyarbakır preletavajo vojaška letala na poti v irak in čeprav nedaleč stran divja vojna v siriji. 



mardin market

cigaretes they roll are thick and without filter

on top of the world

garden

the crew

lifestyle didn't change for decades

look at me, look at me!

street is a playground

serious game

gaziantep

urfa

hasankeyf

streets of diyarbakır

dreamy house?

firinda tava, we got recipe:)

20121205

KASIM

november happened while warm sun still welcomed us in the morning and every day heavier fog laid upon the city in the evening. it was not the only contrast felt. it was also about relation ljubljana-istanbul, after two months i am not a complete stranger anymore, it was about discovering imposing past and comparing it to decay neighborhoods or projects being built, without architects approval that project is benefiting the city not only in economic way, it was about feeling of glitter istiklal caddesi fading away and increasing interest of side streets and it was about, as always, learning from differences between people; random or those loved more and more day by day. 

med še toplim jutranjim soncem in vse težjo večerno meglo se je razpel november. ni bilo to edino nasprotje. šlo je tudi za razmerje ljubljana-istanbul, po dveh mesecih nisem več tako zelo tuja, impozantno preteklostjo historičnega dela v primerjavi z razpadajočo sedanjostjo nekaterih sosesk in bodočih projektov, ki mestu v prvi vrsti koristijo iz ekonomskega vidika, vedno bolj bledim bliščem istiklala in izgubljanjem v stranskih ulicah in kot vedno učenje iz razlik med ljudmi; naključnimi ali iz dneva v dan bolj ljubimi. 

cats enjoying sun
people enjoying sun
tarlabaşı neighborhood
discussing turkish-kurdish relations
driver's children taking vip seats
flower sellers being moved due to taksim project
backstage
under the bosphorus bridge on rainy sunday afternoon